The pearls of a “Western Fantasy”

The touristic Seville has been suffering from overexploitation for years, which is why the eyes of Silvio Fernández, a rocker, Sevillista and devotee, show a different city. Especially, the hidden beauty belonging to some places in his neighbourhood of Triana-Los Remedios. 

Don’t forget this name, Silvio Fernández Melgarejo, through whose eyes places that hid innate roots can be glimpsed, and thanks to whose voice you will be able to ride a boat that navigates the streets of a river which separates Seville from Triana but which unites the whole metropolis. The city of Seville harbours streets and corner which, due to its architectonic beauty or its disposition in the scenery are unattainable for anyone’s imagination, but there are also cases in which an uplifting story makes certain places become a mandatory visit for whoever may be attracted. A great example of this is the “Real Alcázar”, which has made numerous tourists from all around the world feel quite attracted to this palace complex since its appearance in Games of Thrones, the acclaimed medieval fantasy drama. Silvio, who is an example and exemplary, represents unequivocally this dichotomy, being born in Triana but being able to feel from another world just because of the legend created after him. 

The neighbourhood of Triana possesses an astonishing quantity of folkloric natives that always stand out for their motley personality, and the case of the rocker Silvio was no less. Although rock was his way of expressing his emotions, many of said feelings were evoked by “his” Virgin of the Patrocinio, which, for any person who may imagine the stereotype of a rocker, may be contradictory even. And it was “Patronage of my existence” for a Silvio that was deeply illuminated by the light of his mother.

The Marian devotions of Our Lady of Patronage is in the Castilla street number 182, inside the Basilica of the Holy Christ of the Expiration, from which each Good Friday the well-known Brotherhood of “el Cachorro” departs in penitential procession towards the Holy Cathedral. This Catholic building dates from the end of the 17th century and, besides being a place where Silvio Fernández went regularly to show his devotion and his character as a worshiper of the Brotherhood, served as a small chapel in the beginning and it suffered from one of the best known historical catastrophes that happened in the peninsula, the earthquake of Lisbon in 1755.

From the “other side” of the neighbourhood.

In the area of Los Remedios, in the day-to-day life. “Now I only need to get drunk”, was the most frequently heard in the countless concerts, interviews and trips. Undoubtedly, it could happen in any place but where it felt the best was in the Bar ABC, located in the Virgen de Luján street number 52. This old bar must have had a special magic, now known as the Bar Atokateja, which in an immaculate trajectory full of stories, the best ones always happened there. Nowadays, some tiles that recognize a spot as “The Corner of Silvio” can be seen marking the place in which he used to be with a cigarette and a cognac.

The Bar Atokateja was not only thoughtful with the artist regarding this gesture, but also, usually honours him with a musical selection that contains all his hits in an ideal setting to taste one of the best and iciest beers of Triana-Los Remedios accompanied by a typical platter of cold meats. Although with a curious, and maybe unpleasant, anecdote confessed by the bartender when he had to store some pictures of Silvio from the corner due to the fact that the owner of these photographs recognized her ownership and forced him to take them down.  

On the other hand, this event could be explained, something as usual as going to the bar next-door, since he did it in the same way as any worker with an average-low salary at the time. Something that was normal for him but that, compared to the current stars with the same national and international significance that Silvio had, would be almost impossible. Another aspect of the place which also makes it intrinsic to this walk through a white and black past is the proximity and the “purity” that can be felt in the ambience. Getting away from what is eminently touristic makes you closer to the everyday reality, to the routine of a society, to what cannot be seen and has always been there. This reason makes knowing about these bars, grocery stores and pubs something mandatory, but even more importantly knowing about those of the peculiar area of Triana- Los Remedios. 

The last place, and probably the most unique one, is the first hair salon managed by Francisco Romero (Don Curro) in the corner of the Virgin of the Valley with Ferdinand IV, where thousands of stories intersect. “Barbería Museum”, “the ticket to enter only costs 11 euros, the cut or styling of the hair is completely free”, “hairdressing, only art” or “welcome to the Eden of hair” are some of the sentences that are written in the forefront and window of the premises of Curro Silver Barber. In the hair salon belonging to Tomás Barba in the Virgin of Begoña street appeared his first moments with a guitar when he became a trainee in said hair salon, the place in which he coincided with Jesús Senra, who would be the first singer of Los Lentos. If his scissors could talk, they would definitely have enough stories starring Silvio to write a literature series as good as those bestsellers that are impossible to displace.

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